Climbers and those medical doctors believe that at a height of about 8000 meters, human physiology will be disrupted. If you continue to climb upwards, most ordinary climbers will be killed on the spot by the thin air on the top of the mountain. Even if you can survive, it is only a few hours at most. Therefore, people all call this height "death band".
At present, the height of only 14 peaks in the world exceeds the daunting “death beltâ€. The 14 peaks are all located in a large half-moon mountain range. The mountain ranges north of Pakistan and extends southeast to Sikkim along the Himalayas. For the climbers, facing any of the 14 peaks above 8,000 meters means facing death. Although most of the peaks above 8000 meters have been summited by mountaineers, including Mount Everest (Mount Everest). But these climbers are more or less entirely on their own ability because they use oxygen cylinders. In the history of world mountaineering, no one has ever peaked all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters, let alone use oxygen cylinders. However, not long ago, when a man with a rough-looking, bearded face and golden beard took a double foot on the peak of Lhotse, the fourth peak in the world, a rare feat in the history of human climbing was born. This miracle maker is Reinhold Messner, the world famous mountaineer in Italy. In the past 16 years, he had climbed another 13 peaks above 8000 meters without carrying oxygen. Today, he finally realized his desire to fight 16 years of Grand Slam.
This world-acclaimed sportsman has been challenging the 14 highest peaks in the world since 1970.
He first climbed to the summit of South Gaipa in the Manglai Glacier in the western Himalayas. He then climbed with his partner Hille Bale to Mount Manaslu in central Nepal. The first peak of Shuluomu. In 1978, he and 36-year-old Peter Haber was accompanied by anaerobic climb to Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. At that time, the whole world of mountaineering was amazed. In 1979, Messner returned to the base camp at the Sino-Pakistani junction and captured the world's second-highest peak, the Qoros. In 1980, he once again climbed Mount Everest, but this time alone he was alone.
After he completed the climbing tasks of the Ganchengzhangjia Mountain, the Gashulumu Peak and the Buloat Main Peak, it is generally believed that Messner’s energy has dried up and there is no possibility of further climbing. But Messner had his own opinion. He said: "In 1982, I was able to win three consecutive peaks in a quarter. This made me deeply convinced that one person had topped all 14 worlds in his lifetime. The peak should be a breeze, at least not impossible."
In fact, it's not that simple to do it. Last month, Messner made three attempts on Makaru Peak. When he made his last effort, he told Radio Times reporters from the Alpine Camp via radio to interview him: “Whenever I Climbing up 20 to 25 steps hard, I had to stop for a rest and do a deep breath 10 to 20 times.†Last week Messner and his other mountaineering partner Hans Kamran Germany once climbed Lhotse Peak once, but on the way to the mountain, they were once trapped by the harsh climate for an hour. Fortunately, afterwards, the winds weakened and they managed to reach the top of the hill with the help of a perfectly smooth wind.
One of the secrets of Messner’s success is lightness. His equipment is simple, as if he is not to climb the world's highest peak, but to the ordinary mountain travel. For Messner, those mysterious, disdainful roofs of the world are just piles of small hills that lie together. He used exactly what he called "light loading" to level out all the world's highest peaks above 8,000 meters and took the lead among the world's many climbers.
In past mountaineering history, those who once climbed the 8000-meter peak, they all carried a complete set of heavy climbing ropes, oxygen cylinders, and the like, and gradually established alpine camps. At the same time, they It is also assisted by many powerful Tibetan guides. However, in Messner’s mountaineering career, none of this happened. This "lightly loaded" climbing style attracts thousands of imitators.
The series of amazing records created by Messner will lead him to believe that he must possess an unusual physique superior to other climbers. A Swiss doctor named Oswaldo Olds, after testing the climber under low pressure, concluded that Messner’s physiology did not have any unusual features compared to ordinary climbers. The results of Messner's measurements show that his physiology is similar to that of a marathon runner with an upper middle level. Dr. Olds believes that Messner and those climbers who once broke the obstacle of 8000 meters height have stronger respiratory system than ordinary people. That is, as the air becomes thinner and thinner, their breathing rate will increase. The famous mountaineer Chris Bonnington said: “Compared with other mountaineers, Messner’s real advantage lies in his bold innovation and rich imagination. For ordinary people, they always stand in front of them. There was an insurmountable 'high wall', but there was a man full of extraordinary imagination who dared to challenge it. He was Reinhold Messner."