A few days ago, during training as a bouldering man, he felt a sore joint in the middle of his right middle finger compared with a single finger hole.
There was no particular concern at the time. On the second day, Guangzhou Acheng came to Yangshuo, where he practiced in the bouldering hall. The middle finger joints
Although the pain can be tolerated, but in the end has not dared to push hard, and later in accordance with Ah Cheng's method, with the active oil wiped
Two days, and Yunnan Baiyao sprayed for two days, is still not effective, these two days can only rest. Seems to be preventive
In the first place, because the warm-up did not work well, the joints of the fingers were strained.
The following is an article about warm-up and relaxation and I hope it will benefit everyone.
Excerpts: Rock climbing technical report/chapter 2/Li Yulin
Section 1 Warmup and Cooldown
Many sports-loving friends often engage in physical exercise when they are engaged in sports activities, or they often start to engage in the sport when they do so.
Maybe I do not know that it has had side effects on body and physiology, acute injuries (such as fractures, tendon tears) and chronic injuries (such as
Fatigue fractures and joint capsule wear will come one after another. The occurrence of sports injuries will not only make you unable to enjoy for a short time.
The pleasure of sports, more serious, may no longer be able to engage in the sport.
Warm-up, often part of physical training in general sports books, but for rock climbing enthusiasts, it is recommended
In terms of basic technology, the so-called "fatigue of physical training does not produce results. Insufficient warm-up, there will be a crisis of sports injuries."
The warm-up of good and bad will obviously affect the climbing technique because its effect is:
First, it can increase the speed and strength of muscle contraction.
Second, it can improve muscle coordination.
Third, it can prevent or reduce the damage of muscles, tendons and ligaments.
Fourth, in the endurance sports project, it can accelerate the emergence of "regeneration gas" (commonly known as the wall-hit period).
Fifth, reduce pressure.
Six, increase the fun of sports.
The physiological mechanism is:
First, muscles contract and relax faster.
Second, due to reduced muscle viscosity, the muscle contraction efficiency improved.
Third, to enhance the ability of hemoglobin to bind and release oxygen.
Fourth, the metabolic process improves.
Fifth, the reduction of vascular wall resistance.
Sixth, the sensitivity and nerve conduction speed of the nerve sensor can be improved due to proper elevation of body temperature.
Seventh, body temperature rises, can stimulate the blood vessel to expand.
The following is a detailed description of warm-up:
Warm-up exercises: Any preparations made before sports, such as: muscle stretching, body swing,
Full runs are called warm-up exercises. There are generally three stages of warm-up (called warm-up three-step), one is general exercise, and the other is soft exercise.
The third is psychological preparation.
First, systemic exercise: It is mainly to let all bodily functions heat up, generally to achieve results with jogging, such as running around the climbing site.
Second, soft exercise: both muscle stretching exercises, so that the body's muscles, joints, ligaments first to do a slow stretch, so that the body's blood
The cycle is gradually accelerating. This helps the body to adapt to the increased speed of the heartbeat, the muscles and the nervous system. stretch
The ways can be divided into two kinds:
(1) Passive or static: It means that there will be no vigorous force stretching from top to bottom or back and forth, but it will remain in the last stretch position for some time.
(b) Active or elastic: It includes vigorous exercise from top to bottom or back and forth, but it does not stop at the last extended position.
Both stretching activities have improved softness, but static methods may be better because:
1. Compare the risk of no organizational injury.
2, less energy consumption.
3. Has the effect of avoiding or eliminating muscle tension or soreness.
The basic principle of static stretching: tighten muscles first, then relax, and then stretch again.
Tighten: Use some kind of resistance to tighten the muscles or muscles and maximize the force without contracting the muscles. Hold this position for 12-20 seconds.
Relax: relax 2 - 3 seconds.
Stretch: gently stretch the muscles as far as possible until there is a little pain. At this time, the stretching part has a feeling of being stretched, and maintain this posture for 12-20 seconds.
Some guidelines for stretching:
1, the elastic type first do centrifugal (distant from the heart) joints, such as the wrist ankle joint, and then do near the heart joints, such as the neck joint.
2. Static stretching should be started with a larger joint and then to a delicate part to ensure that each group of muscles can stretch enough.
3. Stretching exercises must be performed before and after exercise, even during exercise.
4. To increase softness, it must be done regularly, at least three to four times a week, and gradually increase strength and time.
5. When the body is injured and muscles, joints, or tendons feel pain, stretching exercise should be suspended.
6. Exercise with natural breathing and stretching when stretching.
The third is psychological preparation: this stage is the final step before the exercise, to psychologically guide the physiological function of moderate operation, such as wet hands before swimming
Patting the chest, in addition to trying the water temperature, the self is ready and ready to go. When rock climbing, this step is to touch the rock.
Let the hands and toes feel the rock face, and let the mentally prepared to engage in this exercise.
It takes 20-30 minutes for warm-up exercises to be effective. Every rock climbing enthusiast should not regard his own health as a child's play and moderate warm-up.
In order to enjoy the fun of climbing.
Cool-down Exercise: Actually, the body's circulatory system and musculoskeletal tissue must be
After a period of buffering, the blood pressure and heartbeat can be pulsed and returned to normal exercise. In the buffer period, athletes need to perform a series of
Stretch muscles so that the heart rate can gradually decline, smooth blood flow, reduce lactic acid accumulation. Relaxation exercise (somebody calls a dynamic rest)
It must be implemented at the end of the exercise. It is forbidden to use complete rest. The muscle stretching done by the mitigation exercise is roughly the same as the muscle stretching done during the warm-up.
Orient IRIS-STAR,the updated thermal CTP plates based on the original IRIS technology with balanced press performance,resolution and lattitude.Orient Thermal Plate is a high-quality printing plate specialized for thermal CTP platesetter, self-developed by Jiangsu Orient Printing Equipment Co.,Ltd. It is directly scanned by 830nm laser controlled by computer and put on press for printing after developing. The formulation designed by our own intellectual properties and the unique manufacturing process make Orient Thermal CTP Plate features as follow:
Unique formulation design
High-quality substrate
Convenient bright room operation
Outstanding platesetter compatibility
Positive Thermal CTP Plate,Digital CTP Plates Positive Thermal,Aluminum Positive Thermal CTP Plate,Printing Positive Thermal CTP Plate,CTP Plate,Thermal Plate,Photopolymer Plate,Violet Plate
Jiangsu Orient Printing Equipment Co.,Ltd , http://www.eastplate-iris.com