When people are climbing, why are they light and flexible? Is someone clumsy? When you are climbing, why are others clear? And I try again? This too many factors may not be clear for three days. However, "core power" may be one of the keys.
What is the core? The Chinese are called Dan Tian, ​​the center of the body, between the abdomen and the waist, under the diaphragm. In Eastern culture, that seemingly absent function is a mystical place filled with mysterious colors. Western anatomy cannot find its existence. However, there are many non-mainstream scientific researches that have confirmed its psychological functions and have also discovered the existence of invisible qi.
To put it practically, the core strength refers to the power of muscle groups near Dantian.
When your hand is injured, you may also be able to go mountain climbing. When you have an injured foot, you may still be able to stand still and play. However, if the waist flashes, it is like a waste person. What can you do other than lying in bed? The core strength is the fundamental body movement.
In order for the body to produce an overall movement, hands and feet must use the power of the core in order to function. The inadequacy of the core strength is like jumping up and down on a cushion, and the strength of a strong leg can't jump.
The forging chain core has three focuses: muscle strength, endurance, speed
The core muscle strength and endurance are similar to those of forging chain muscles.
The core is "strong", and the hands and feet can be fully mobilized, and there will be no problem of "strongly unable to use".
The core "resistance" will not be the same as that of Haishaya. It will climb up to half of its movements. It is clear that the hands and feet are not very tired but they have fallen.
The core speed does not refer to the speed of muscle contraction, but refers to "the time from the command to the start of contraction"; that is, the speed of the core muscle reaction. This is related to the quality of dynamic actions.
The climber who gives a soft and dexterous impression, in the process of climbing, must use only the necessary muscles in most of the movements. The rest of the muscles are relaxed and on standby.
When you are ready to do a dynamic action (including a large movement from Dyno to small movements that deliberately lose balance), the core muscle groups must contract earlier and stabilize toward our lumbar spine at the instant before the hands and feet are forced. The core is too early and the action is stiff; the core is too slow and forcefully loose. Success or failure may only be a one-hundredth of a second difference. As for how to grasp this one-hundredth second response, it will not only be three days, but also three nights.
The action described in Rock & Ice 152 is to exercise the strength and endurance of the core strength. However, although the gymnastics action that is suspended to lift the foot to the level is effective, it is too difficult for the average climber. Therefore, it is suggested that the leg retraction to the chest easier. In fact, there are many ways to exercise core strength. The most commonly used are sit-ups and prone backs.
Let's talk about the common sit-ups:
Fixed toe, knees bent to 90 degrees (not straight leg exercises, easy to cause acute or chronic muscle laceration), hands placed in different positions (belly, chest, shoulders or ears. Do not put on the hindbrain force, easy to hurt the cervical spine) Lying on the floor, the upper body rises, elbows touch the knees, and lie flat on the floor. Because each cycle (up and down) of abdominal muscles is equivalent to resting time, the effect is limited.
If you can do more than 40 normal sit-ups in one minute, you can try the following advanced actions:
Prepare to move as above. Force the waist approximately 0.5 centimeters from the ground and slowly upwards to approximately 15 degrees from the horizontal. Just move up and down within 15 degrees and remember to keep breathing. (It is a small area of ​​up and down movement, the body does not stick back to the ground, so that abdominal muscles continue to force.)
At the beginning of the exercise, the weaker abdominal muscles may feel a lot of pressure, difficulty in breathing, and rapid accumulation of lactic acid. Do not worry, you can reduce the number of repetitions, but practice every day, and then slowly increase the weight. After a period of acclimation of one month, generously, you will gradually get into a good place and breathe smoothly. Although you will feel tired, the degree of tolerance to lactic acid will be greatly enhanced.
Talk about lying prone:
Back muscles are naturally the strongest muscles in the body and the other pillar of core strength.
Prone on the floor, fixed the toes, two small cushions on the lower abdomen, the hands according to the degree of placement of different positions (hip, waist, shoulders, head, front). Keep your upper body as straight as possible. When you come down, do not touch the ground with your chest and keep your back muscles in a forced state. After the above exercise, the body is warm, most suitable for stretching exercises, the effect is very good.
As for the speed of response to training core muscles, it should be the most commonly overlooked.
Because the core reaction involves the coordination of many muscles, it cannot be controlled directly with consciousness. On the contrary, we must deliberately reduce the impact of consciousness. In the practice of repeated repetition, let the nerves form a crooked path and let the body react naturally.
The most simple and easy way to practice is to repeat dynamic bouldering. For example, look for two feet that are about the same width as your shoulders. You can find appropriate hand points for each position at your fingertips, and keep your hands constantly changing points between positions. When the body changes points, it goes up and down and shifts left and right, but the foot does not change. The second step is to practice different kinds of dynamic actions. The method is the same as above (but the feet are not limited to the same place) and it is repeated until it becomes automated.
(Note: Another rock friend, Wang Hongxiang, added that “many people are overwhelmed with fear of uncontrollability. The upper body (finger, forearm, biceps, deltoid muscles) will exert excessive force. At this time, the body will be taken away from the rock wall. You can't display it, this action is especially noticeable when you climb the sky, and when you focus on the fissures of your fingers, the upper body will use a force and the feet will fly out.It is very difficult to step on the rock and turn it up. Therefore, some people may feel that the school is more likely to crawl in some actions, and most of the reasons are due to their own strength, deltoid muscle strength is enough, and the coordination of the core strength is not enough, so let the foot step is not good , it will feel easier without using your feet.")
When you are skilled in various dynamic actions, the core strength and the strength of hands and feet will be automatically coordinated. But there are two things that undermine this coordination: emotions and thinking
Emotional control:
Only when the muscles are relaxed will it be soft, and only the soft muscles can quickly send out the greatest strength at the moment of command.
Emotional exercises can start from the lower ground and do dynamic actions, and then slowly increase the height. When in a high place of 7 or 8 meters, when doing dynamic actions and not being influenced by emotions, you can practice in a more challenging avant-garde way. When you are skilled, although you are afraid of your heart, you can still do what you want to do. Congratulations, you have passed another round.
Note: Emotional fears and cognitive fears are different. The former is a feeling, the latter is a fact and cannot be confused; otherwise, it is prone to danger.
The vacancy of thought: After passing the "emotion", there is "thinking" to overcome
On the ground, breaking the route requires thinking; on the rock wall, through difficulties, coordination is needed. Thoughtful reasoning and intuitive coordination are basically consistent and incompatible. If our ability is 100 points, then the brain will think with 70 points, and the body will have 30 points of coordination, and vice versa. Extremely, if we enter the realm of ecstasy, we can show near-perfect coordination, and sometimes we don't even know why we can climb so smoothly.
The same goes for venting exercises. After thinking about cracking the route, before you climb, give yourself a buffer, let the different modes of thinking and intuition get in your heart. Once a time exercise, the time difference needed for the transfer is gradually reduced. In the end, of course, it is hoped that it can be transferred at any time.
Of course, experts may be dismissive of what has been said above, because for them, it's natural, and it's hard to tell. It is often seen that their actions are so coordinated that it seems to be effortless. As long as we observe, savor, and practice, we will be able to enjoy it one day, and the movements will be as smooth as we can see.
The author also emphasizes: "The core strength cannot enhance your technology, the technology must go for long-term study and practice. The core strength is to help you to fully utilize the technology that you have learned."
Another rock friend Zhongda also added: "General English core strength mainly refers to the strength of the lower back and abdomen. In rock climbing, sometimes broadly refers to the overall strength from the shoulder to the lower leg. This force is important in climbing. Where is sex? For example, when you stay at 3, 40 degrees overhang, from the point of the hand to the foot, you must maintain a considerable body tension in order to keep your toes steady on your feet. In point, some climbers will only emphasize the strength of their arms and ignore this core force.†Eric Horst of Climbing magazine has also described it.â€
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